For most standard emulsions on a previously painted surface in decent condition, two coats will give you a solid, even finish. If you’re going from a dark colour to a light one, or painting onto fresh plaster or bare filler, you’ll likely need three — or a proper mist coat first on new plaster. Skipping coats to save time is the number one reason DIY paint jobs look amateur.

Matt emulsion is the most forgiving on walls — it hides surface imperfections well and looks clean in natural light, which is why it’s the trade standard for ceilings and main walls. Avoid vinyl silk on walls unless the surface is perfect, as it highlights every bump and brush mark. For hallways and high-traffic areas, a durable matt or eggshell finish gives you better scuff resistance without the sheen.

Yes — if you’re painting bare or stripped wood, a primer is non-negotiable; without it, the topcoat soaks in unevenly and adhesion is poor. On previously painted woodwork in good condition, a light sand and a coat of undercoat before your topcoat is the correct sequence. Jumping straight to a gloss or satin finish without prep is why woodwork peels within a year.

Rake out the crack slightly with a scraper or filling knife so it’s not just sitting on the surface, then work in a flexible filler like Polycell Fine Surface Filler or a ready-mixed interior filler. Once dry, sand it back flush, spot-prime it, and then paint — if you skip the spot primer, the filler will flash through as a dull patch even under two coats. For cracks that keep coming back, use a fine jointing tape bedded into filler before decorating.

Yes, in most cases — as long as the existing gloss is sound, well-adhered, and not flaking or heavily built up. Key the surface thoroughly with 120-grit sandpaper, wipe off the dust, apply a coat of undercoat, then finish with your chosen topcoat. If the old paint is bubbling, flaking, or layered so thick it’s obscuring the detail on architraves or mouldings, it’s worth stripping back to bare wood for a proper job.