What’s Causing This?

Loose board-to-joist fixings — The most common cause. Over time, cut nails or screws lose their grip, allowing the board to flex up and down against the joist with every step. The squeak is produced by the board moving fractionally. See the full fix in our Fix a Squeaky Floor guide.

Board-to-board rubbing — Timber expands and contracts with changes in humidity and temperature. When gaps close or tongue-and-groove joints wear, adjacent boards can rub against each other, creating a high-pitched squeak. This is particularly common in older houses with original pine floorboards.

Subfloor movement — In homes with a suspended timber floor, the joists themselves can shift or the noggins between them can work loose. If a wide section of floor squeaks together rather than at a single point, the subfloor is a likely culprit. A dip in the floor can indicate joist issues — see Fix a Dip in the Floor for more detail.

Gaps between boards — When timber dries out, boards shrink and gaps open up. This allows boards to flex where they were previously held snug, introducing movement and noise. See our guide to Fill Gaps in Floorboards to address this directly.

Underlay or sheeting movement — Where sheet materials such as plywood or hardboard have been laid over original boards, fixing failures can cause the sheet to shift slightly with foot traffic, producing a creak. This is often confused with board movement but has a flatter, duller sound.

How to Diagnose the Exact Cause

1. Walk slowly over the affected area and listen carefully. A sharp, repetitive squeak at a single point usually indicates a loose fixing. A longer, rubbing sound that moves with your step suggests board-to-board friction.
2. Identify whether the squeak is isolated or widespread. A single board squeaking points to a localised fixing or gap issue. If several adjacent boards squeak together, the joist or subfloor beneath is more likely involved.
3. Check the floor from below if accessible. From a basement or crawl space, have someone walk above while you look for movement at the joist-to-board junction. Visible flexing or a gap appearing between joist and board confirms a fixing failure.
4. Press down firmly on the board and release. If the squeak only occurs on the upward release (not on pressing down), the board is lifting away from the joist — a classic loose nail or screw symptom.
5. Look for gaps between boards in good raking light. Shine a torch at a low angle across the floor surface. Visible gaps wider than 1–2 mm alongside a squeak confirm timber shrinkage is a factor.
6. Tap the floor with your knuckle. A hollow sound compared to neighbouring sections can indicate a delaminated sheet layer or a void beneath caused by joist movement.

How to Fix It

Loose fixing: Drive screws down through the face of the board into the joist below — use a pilot hole to avoid splitting. Countersink the screw head and fill with a matching wood filler. For a full walkthrough, see Fix a Squeaky Floor.

Board-to-board rubbing: Work talcum powder or powdered graphite into the joint between the squeaking boards. This is a temporary but effective measure. For a permanent fix, the boards may need to be lifted, planed along the edge where they bind, and re-laid — see the Timber & Joinery Guide for techniques on working with timber.

Subfloor movement: Access from below where possible and install blocking or noggins between joists to stiffen the structure. If access is only from above, screwing the board down and into a noggin added alongside the joist can resolve the movement. Significant structural joist issues require a structural engineer or builder.

Gaps between boards: Fill narrow gaps with a flexible wood filler or rope caulk in a matching colour. For wider gaps, timber slivers can be glued in. See the detailed process in our Fill Gaps in Floorboards guide.

Underlay or sheet movement: Locate the fixing failure by pressing the sheet firmly and screwing it back down into the joist or board below. Use appropriately sized screws and ensure you locate the joist — not just the old board — for a secure hold.

When to Call a Tradesman

Most squeaky floorboard problems are straightforward DIY repairs. However, you should call a qualified tradesman in the following situations:

Signs of structural joist failure — If a section of floor feels noticeably springy or has a visible dip when walked on, the joist beneath may be cracked, damaged by woodworm, or have suffered wet rot. A structural engineer or experienced builder should assess this before any DIY repair is attempted. Do not ignore a floor that feels unsafe underfoot.

Wet rot or woodworm found in boards or joists — If you lift a board and find soft, discoloured timber or the characteristic flight holes and bore dust of woodworm, the extent of the infestation or decay needs professional assessment. Treating active wet rot requires addressing the moisture source, which may involve plumbing or damp-proofing work.

Access beneath the floor is not possible — Some subfloor repairs, particularly in older properties with deep void spaces or in flats where the floor structure is shared, require professional access equipment or involve communal structures. In a leasehold flat, check your lease before drilling into or removing any floor coverings, as you may need landlord or management company consent.

Historic or listed buildings — Original boards in listed properties may be subject to planning conditions. Contact your local planning authority before carrying out any works that alter original fabric.

How to Prevent It Happening Again

• Maintain stable indoor humidity levels. Timber expands and contracts with moisture changes. Keeping indoor relative humidity between 40–60% year-round reduces the seasonal movement that loosens fixings and creates gaps. A simple hygrometer will help you monitor this.
• Use screws rather than nails when re-laying boards. Cut nails — the original fixing in most older floors — lose grip over time. When any board is lifted for pipe or cable access, refix it using appropriate-length screws countersunk below the surface. Screws resist the seasonal pulling forces that nails cannot hold against indefinitely.
• Treat timber before re-laying. If boards are being lifted as part of wider renovation work, apply a wood preservative to the underside of each board and to the joist top before re-laying. This reduces the risk of future wet rot or woodworm, which can cause structural movement and noise over time.
• Lay adequate underlay beneath engineered or laminate floors. Where floorboards form the subfloor beneath a floating floor, a good quality underlay reduces the impact transferred to the subfloor and dampens minor movement. See Best Underlay for Laminate for guidance on choosing the right product.