How to Felt a Shed Roof – DIY Guide
To felt a shed roof, strip the old felt, inspect and repair the decking boards, then lay new roofing felt from the bottom up, overlapping each row by at least 50mm and fixing with clout nails. Finish with felt adhesive along all overlaps and edges.
- Claw hammer
- Nail bar or pry bar
- Scissors or craft knife
- Tape measure
- Chalk line or straight edge
- Brush for adhesive
- Safety gloves
- Mineral-surface roofing felt (shed grade)
- Clout nails (20mm galvanised)
- Roofing felt adhesive
- Timber battens (for verge edges, if needed)
- Replacement decking boards or exterior-grade plywood (if required)
- Roofing felt edging trim or drip edge strip
Step-by-Step Guide
Strip the Old Felt and Inspect the Deck
Pull off all existing felt using a claw hammer and nail bar, removing every clout nail. With the deck clear, check every board for rot, splitting or soft spots — press firmly with your thumb at each joist line. Any board that flexes or feels spongy must be replaced before you lay new felt; covering rotten timber is the single biggest cause of premature felt failure. If your shed needs more structural attention first, our guide to repairing a garden shed covers timber repairs in detail.
Measure and Cut the Felt to Size
Measure the full length and width of each roof face, then add 50mm to each edge to allow for the overhang over the fascia or barge board. Unroll the felt on a flat surface and cut cleanly with scissors or a craft knife against a straight edge. For a standard apex roof you will need three runs of felt per face — bottom, middle and top — cut to length before you climb up, which keeps working at height safe and efficient.
Lay the First (Bottom) Row of Felt
Start at the lowest edge of the roof and align the felt so it overhangs the fascia by approximately 50mm. Fix the top edge with clout nails at 100mm centres, then nail down each side edge. Do not drive nails closer than 25mm to any cut edge or the felt will tear. Keep the felt taut as you go — ripples trap water and crack in frost.
Lay Subsequent Rows with Correct Overlap
Each row must overlap the one below by a minimum of 50mm — use a chalk line to mark the overlap position before positioning the felt so every row is dead straight. Fix the top edge with clout nails at 100mm centres, apply a bead of roofing felt adhesive under the overlap, press the felt down firmly and run a gloved hand along to bond it. Repeat for the top row, which should extend over the ridge by at least 150mm if it is an apex roof.
Seal the Ridge and Dress the Edges
On an apex shed, cut a separate strip of felt approximately 300mm wide to cap the ridge, applying adhesive to both faces before pressing it down and nailing at 100mm centres along each side. Fold the felt over barge boards and fascias neatly, mitre the corners to reduce bulk, and nail or staple the underside. Apply a generous bead of felt adhesive along every dressed edge and all side laps. Drip-edge trim fixed along the eaves gives a tidy finish and stops the overhang curling over time.
Check All Fixings and Clear the Roof
Walk around the shed at eye-level and look along the roof surface for any bubbles, lifted edges or missed nail heads. Press down any raised sections and add extra adhesive where needed. Clear all off-cuts and debris from the roof surface and gutters. Run water from a hosepipe over the finished roof and check inside the shed immediately for any drips — address them now rather than after the first rainstorm.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many layers of felt should a shed roof have?
One layer is standard for a DIY shed roof using mineral-surface shed felt, provided overlaps are correct and edges are well adhered. Some roofers add a second layer on very low-pitch roofs for extra resilience, but on a typical garden shed a single properly installed layer is adequate.
What is the best type of felt for a shed roof?
Mineral-surface roofing felt (often labelled shed felt or torch-on-alternative felt) is the most practical choice for DIY — it is reinforced with a mineral grit surface that resists UV degradation and is straightforward to fix with cold adhesive and clout nails. Avoid thin, unreinforced felt as it tears easily and has a short lifespan.
How long does shed roof felt last?
Standard mineral-surface shed felt typically lasts 5–10 years depending on exposure, roof pitch and how well it was installed. Higher-grade reinforced or heavy-duty felt can last longer, and keeping the roof clear of debris and standing water extends the lifespan considerably.
Can I felt a shed roof in cold or wet weather?
Avoid working in rain — wet decking traps moisture under the new felt, promoting rot and preventing adhesive from bonding. Cold weather below 5°C makes felt brittle and difficult to dress around edges without cracking. Aim for a dry day above 10°C for the best results. If you are planning garden projects in sequence, our Garden Guide can help you schedule work by season.
Do I need planning permission to re-felt a shed roof?
No — re-felting an existing shed roof is routine maintenance and does not require planning permission in England, Scotland or Wales. If you are replacing or substantially altering the structure of the shed itself, check with your local planning authority, but like-for-like felt replacement is always permitted development. For guidance on external structures, the Driveways & External Guide covers permitted development rules in more detail.
Before nailing, warm the felt slightly on a sunny day or leave the roll in a warm space for an hour — it becomes noticeably more pliable, dresses around corners cleanly without cracking, and beds down flat without the creases that create water-pooling channels. Cold felt fights you at every fold.
Sources
- HSE — Working at Height Regulations 2005: guidance for low-level roof work — hse.gov.uk
- Which? — Shed roof felt buying guide — which.co.uk
- Planning Portal — Permitted development for householder outbuildings — planningportal.co.uk
This guide is for general information only. Always work safely and follow manufacturer instructions. DIYnut accepts no liability for injury or damage arising from DIY work.
