How to Lay Turf

DIY Guide

Get a lush, established lawn in a single weekend with the right preparation.

Quick Answer

To lay turf, clear and level the ground, improve the soil with topsoil or compost, then unroll turf rolls in a staggered brick-bond pattern. Firm each roll down, butt joints tightly together, and water thoroughly. Keep watered daily for at least two weeks until roots establish.

Before

After

Difficulty

Intermediate

Time

1–2 Days

Cost

£150–£400

Tools Needed

Spade
Garden fork
Rake
Turf roller or hand tamper
Garden hose or sprinkler
Half-moon edging iron
Plank or board (for kneeling on turf)
Wheelbarrow

Materials

Turf rolls
Topsoil
Pre-turfing fertiliser
Sharp sand (if improving drainage)
Garden compost or organic matter
Lawn seed (for patching cut edges)

How To

Step-by-Step Guide

Clear and Prepare the Ground

Remove all existing grass, weeds, and debris using a spade or garden fork — any perennial weed roots left in the soil will push through your new turf within weeks. If the area is heavily weeded, treat with a systemic weedkiller and allow the recommended clearance period before proceeding. Once clear, dig the soil over to a depth of at least 15 cm to break up compaction and improve drainage. For more on tackling difficult ground, see our Garden Guide for site preparation advice.

Level and Firm the Soil

Rake the surface to a fine, even tilth — remove stones larger than 2 cm as they will create lumps beneath the turf. Walk the entire area heel-to-toe in one direction to firm the soil, then repeat at right angles. Rake lightly again after firming to create a level bed. Aim for the finished soil level to sit approximately 2–3 cm below any surrounding hard surfaces, such as patios or paths, so the turf sits flush once laid. If the area suffers from poor drainage, incorporate a layer of sharp sand worked into the top 10 cm.

Apply Pre-Turfing Fertiliser

Rake in a pre-turfing fertiliser at the manufacturer’s recommended rate across the entire area. This feeds the turf immediately as roots begin to establish contact with the soil. Do not skip this step — newly laid turf cannot draw nutrients effectively from compacted or nutrient-poor ground, and early feeding makes a measurable difference to how quickly the lawn knits in. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds at this stage; a balanced fertiliser with phosphorus encourages root development over leaf growth.

Lay the Turf in a Staggered Pattern

Start along the straightest edge — a fence line, path, or border — and unroll the first row of turf. Lay each subsequent row offset by half a roll length, just like brickwork, so joints never line up. Always kneel on a plank placed on already-laid turf to avoid compressing the bare soil. Butt each roll firmly against the last — gaps will dry out and die. On curves, cut turf to shape with a half-moon edging iron after the main area is laid. If you are also planning to add hard landscaping around the new lawn, our guide on how to lay paving slabs covers edge detailing that borders turf neatly.

Firm Down and Fill Joints

Once all turf is laid, use a turf roller or a hand tamper to press every roll firmly into contact with the soil — this eliminates air pockets that would cause the turf to dry out and shrink. Work in straight lines across the entire area. Brush a mixture of topsoil and compost into any gaps between joints using the back of a rake. This fills voids and helps knit the edges together as roots grow. If you have any low spots visible after rolling, lift the turf, add a little topsoil beneath, and re-lay. If you later notice patchy areas developing, our guide on how to fix a patchy lawn covers remediation options.

Water Thoroughly and Establish a Watering Routine

Water the entire lawn immediately after laying — saturate the turf and the soil beneath it, not just the surface. In the first two weeks, water daily in the early morning or evening, aiming for the soil beneath the turf to remain consistently moist but not waterlogged. Avoid walking on the lawn for at least three weeks. Test whether roots have established by gently tugging a corner of a roll — if it lifts with little resistance, roots have not yet taken hold. In dry spells, increase watering frequency rather than volume per session. Keep foot traffic off the lawn until it resists a firm tug without lifting.

Watch Out

Common Mistakes to Avoid

How much turf do I need to order?

Measure the length and width of your area in metres and multiply them together to get the square meterage. Add 5–10% to account for cuts, awkward edges, and wastage. Turf is sold by the square metre, so round up to the nearest whole figure when ordering.

How long before I can walk on newly laid turf?

Allow a minimum of three weeks before any significant foot traffic. Test readiness by gently pulling a corner of a turf roll — if it lifts without resistance, roots have not yet anchored into the soil and you risk tearing the turf away from its base.

What should I do if my new turf turns yellow after laying?

Yellowing in the first week is usually caused by insufficient watering or heat stress — increase watering frequency immediately and check that moisture is penetrating the soil beneath, not just wetting the surface. If yellowing persists beyond two weeks despite adequate watering, check for air pockets beneath the turf by pressing down firmly across the affected area and re-rolling where necessary.

Can I lay turf on top of existing grass or weeds?

No. Laying turf directly over existing vegetation prevents roots from making contact with the soil, causes the new turf to die back, and allows buried weeds to grow through the new lawn. Always clear, dig over, and prepare the ground fully before laying. For areas with bare or damaged patches rather than a full lawn replacement, consider whether seeding a bare lawn is a more appropriate and cost-effective option.

Pro Tip

When rolling out turf, never stretch a roll to fill a gap — stretched turf shrinks back as it dries and leaves visible joints that invite weeds. Always cut a fresh piece to size. A half-moon iron gives a cleaner edge than any straight spade.

Sources

RHS — Turfing a lawn — rhs.org.uk
Which? — How to lay turf — which.co.uk
GOV.UK — Using pesticides in your garden — gov.uk

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