In most cases, like-for-like roof repairs and replacements are considered permitted development and do not require planning permission, provided the materials are similar in appearance to the existing roof. However, if your property is in a Conservation Area, is a Listed Building, or the work involves a material change in the roof’s appearance (such as adding a rooflight or changing from slate to concrete tiles), you must check with your local planning authority first. Rooflight installations must also comply with Building Regulations Part L (energy efficiency) and Part A (structural), so always verify before starting significant work.

Take a single intact tile to a specialist roofing merchant rather than a general DIY shed — merchants such as Tile Giant, Roofing Superstore, or a local builders’ merchant with a roofing counter will be able to identify the profile, manufacturer, and colour match. Photograph the roof from a distance in good light as well, and note the tile’s dimensions and whether it has a single or double nib. For older clay plain tiles, reclamation yards are often the best source of a genuine match, and sites like Salvo (salvo.co.uk) list reclamation dealers by region across the UK.

EPDM rubber membrane is widely regarded as the most DIY-friendly flat roof system currently available in the UK. It comes in large seamless sheets that eliminate most joints (the main failure point of traditional felt), is cold-applied using contact adhesive so there is no need for a roofing torch or open flame, and typically carries a 20-year manufacturer guarantee when correctly installed. GRP (fibreglass) is equally durable but requires careful mixing of resin and catalyst and is less forgiving of errors; it is better suited to those with some previous composites experience. Avoid simply overlaying new felt on top of old layers — remove back to the deck, check for rot, and start clean.

Overflowing gutters in heavy rain are almost always caused by one of four things: a blockage (leaves, moss, or debris), an insufficient fall towards the downpipe, undersized guttering for the roof catchment area, or a blocked downpipe. Start by clearing all debris and flushing the gutter with a hosepipe to check the flow direction; if water pools in the middle the fall is wrong and brackets need adjusting. If the gutter runs clear but still overflows during heavy downpours, the section may be undersized — a standard 112mm half-round gutter handles roughly 50 square metres of roof; larger roofs need 125mm or 150mm profiles. Also check that the downpipe is clear to ground level and that any underground drainage is not blocked.

You should never walk directly on roof tiles if it can be avoided — concrete and clay tiles are designed to shed water, not bear point loads, and even walking carefully can crack tiles, displace the ones beneath, and damage the roofing felt underneath. Always use a roof ladder, which spreads your weight over multiple tiles via its rungs and hooks over the ridge to prevent sliding. For any work on a fragile or aged roof — particularly old clay plain tiles, natural slate, or fibre cement sheets — use a crawling board (a wide board with timber bearers) to distribute your weight further. If you are unsure of the roof’s structural condition from the loft inspection, do not proceed without professional assessment.