How to Replace Skirting Boards – 2026 Guide
DIY Guides › Carpentry & Woodwork
How to Replace Skirting Boards
Remove old skirting boards and fit new ones for a clean, professional finish.
To replace skirting boards, score the paint seal, lever off the old boards, cut new boards to length with mitred corners, fix them to the wall with adhesive and nails, then fill, sand, and paint for a clean finish.
- Pry bar or bolster chisel
- Hammer
- Mitre saw or hand saw with mitre box
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Caulking gun
- Nail punch
- Sander or sanding block
- Skirting board lengths (MDF or softwood)
- Lost-head oval nails or cut clasp nails
- Grab adhesive
- Decorator’s caulk
- Wood filler
- Fine-grit sandpaper (120–180 grit)
- Primer
- Gloss or satinwood paint
Step-by-Step Guide
Score and Remove the Old Skirting Boards
Run a sharp utility knife along the top edge of the existing skirting board where it meets the wall to break the paint and caulk seal — skipping this step tears the plaster. Insert a bolster chisel or pry bar behind the board at a stud or solid point and lever it away gently, working along the length to avoid cracking the wall. Remove any remaining nails from the wall with pincers and pull out plugs or fixings left behind. Check the wall behind for any damage that needs patching before you fit the new boards.
Measure and Plan Your New Boards
Measure each wall length carefully, accounting for internal and external corners where mitred joints will be needed. Add 10–15% to your total length when buying skirting board to allow for waste from angled cuts. Choose a profile that matches or complements your existing architrave — consistency across the room gives a more considered, professional look. For rooms with out-of-square walls (common in older UK properties), plan to scribe or back-cut joins rather than relying on perfect 45-degree mitres.
Cut the Boards to Length and Angle
Use a mitre saw set to 45 degrees for internal and external corners — external corners mitre outward, internal corners are best cope-cut for a tighter fit. A cope cut involves mitring the end to reveal the profile, then cutting along that profile line with a coping saw or jigsaw so the board overlaps the face of the adjoining piece. This technique compensates for corners that are not a true 90 degrees and produces a gap-free joint that holds up as timber moves seasonally. Cut straight butt joints where boards meet mid-wall, ideally over a stud for a solid fixing point. If you need guidance on finishing the room after fitting, our how to paint skirting boards guide covers preparation and paint selection in full.
Fix the New Boards to the Wall
Apply a continuous bead of grab adhesive to the back of each board, then press it firmly into position against the wall. Check it is level and sitting flush with the floor — use offcuts as temporary packers if the floor is uneven. Once positioned, drive lost-head oval nails through the face of the board into wall plugs or directly into timber studwork at roughly 600 mm intervals. Use a nail punch to drive each nail head just below the surface without bruising the wood. On solid masonry walls, pre-drill and plug fixing points if you are not relying solely on adhesive. If you are also fitting new flooring at the same time, read our how to lay laminate flooring guide — it covers the correct sequence for fitting boards and flooring together.
Fill, Sand, and Seal the Joints
Once all boards are fixed, fill nail holes and any small gaps in joints with a flexible wood filler rather than a rigid one — rigid filler can crack as the timber moves. Allow the filler to dry fully, then sand smooth with 120–180 grit sandpaper. Run a continuous bead of decorator’s caulk along the top edge of the skirting where it meets the wall, smooth it with a damp finger, and allow to dry. This flexible joint absorbs any movement and prevents paint cracking at that junction. For more on preparing a room for decorating, our how to paint a room guide covers wall prep and sequencing in detail.
Prime and Paint for a Lasting Finish
Apply a coat of wood primer to bare MDF or softwood before painting — MDF in particular will absorb topcoat heavily without it, leaving a patchy, uneven result. Allow the primer to dry fully, lightly sand with 180 grit, then apply two topcoats of gloss or satinwood using a 50 mm angled brush. Work with the grain and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. New skirting boards installed in a room with new flooring benefit from being painted before the floor goes down — see our how to fit vinyl flooring guide for how to sequence these jobs correctly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to remove the old skirting boards before fitting new ones?
Yes. Fitting new boards over old ones creates an uneven, unprofessional result and can interfere with door architraves and floor clearances. Removing the old boards also lets you inspect and repair the wall behind before fitting.
What is the best material for replacement skirting boards — MDF or softwood?
MDF is stable, takes paint well (with primer), and is more affordable — it is the right choice for most rooms. Softwood is better where boards may be knocks or scuffs are likely, and it holds nails more reliably, but it requires more preparation to achieve a smooth painted finish.
How do I join skirting boards in the middle of a wall?
Use a scarf joint — mitre both ends at 45 degrees so they overlap at the join rather than butt up square. Position the joint over a stud or solid fixing point so both boards can be nailed securely, and ensure the overlap faces away from the main viewing direction into the room.
Can I fit skirting boards without nails, using adhesive only?
On flat, solid walls, grab adhesive alone can hold lighter MDF boards, but nails provide the mechanical fixing that keeps boards tight to the wall long-term. On stud walls or uneven surfaces, adhesive alone is not reliable — always use both. For more woodwork techniques, visit our Carpentry & Woodwork Guide.
How do I deal with gaps between the skirting board and the floor?
Small gaps are normal, particularly on uneven floors. Use flexible decorator’s caulk — not wood filler — along the bottom edge where the board meets the floor. Caulk moves with the building and will not crack the way rigid fillers do over time.
When fitting MDF skirting on external walls prone to moisture, seal all four faces and both ends with a coat of primer before fixing — moisture entering through unprimed cut ends causes MDF to swell and delaminate from the inside out, and no amount of surface paint will stop it once it has started.
Sources
- HSE — Working with wood: health and safety basics — hse.gov.uk
- Which? — How to fit skirting boards — which.co.uk
- GOV.UK — Permitted development rights for householders: technical guidance — gov.uk
This guide is for general information only. Always work safely and follow manufacturer instructions. DIYnut accepts no liability for injury or damage arising from DIY work.
